How to repot
your new Salvia divinorum plants.
When you get your new plants from me they will be in a 3 in. square pot
and will be suffering from the condition known as 'being root bound'.
root bound is an advantage during shipping but after you receive these
plants you will want to carefully repot them in a larger pot to
maintain their health and stimulate wild growth.
You should wait at least 1 week after you receive your plants from me
before you repot them. Give them time to fully recover from being
folded up into a tiny box before you give them a new home.
You'll need an 8 inch to 12 inch pot that cost 88¢ or $2.97,
or at most a 15 inch pot for $4.97
(purchased at one of the big box
stores). You'll also need river gravel and some potting soil
with good drainage.
I also recommend you have handy a bamboo tomato tie up stake,
and some of the vinyl non-adhesive gardeners tape (grafting tape), to
tie the plant to
after repotting. Also get three or four nice bricks to set
underneath the pot and raise it up off the ground.
- Remove the saucer from the bottom of the plastic pot and
make sure there are lots of good drainage holes. Write the
Serial Number (if there is one) of the plant you are about to repot on
it's new pot.
- Pour a 1" layer of pea-sized or 'river gravel' (which is
nicely rounded) to cover the
drainage holes and prevent gradual erosion of all the dirt through the
drain holes in the bottom. This also provides a way for
salvia's roots to get ample air and helps prevent root rot.
Push the gravel into piles over the drain holes so your soil
doesn't wash out.
- Fill the pot to within 5 in. of the top rim with your
potting soil and tamp and press it down some. If you water it
now and let it settle and subside you can add some more dirt to refill
it to the 5 in. below the rim line.
Make sure it'll fit in there! Leave an inch or two clearance below the
rim to fill with water: do not put the plant and new dirt level flush
with the pots rim. If you did the water would just run off and not soak
in to the soil.
- Holding your new baby in one hand place your index and
middle finger of the other hand on either side of your plant's stem and
lay it across the top of the pot. You'll be making a letter
"V" with your fingers and the baby will be inside the letter "V".
- Turn the baby and the pot upside down and press your index
finger of the hand that pot was sitting on right in the middle of the
bottom of the pot and press downward.
- The pressure will eject the root ball and the gravel from
the pot and the baby will drop an inch or two onto your fingers and
free of its old pot.
- Place the baby on top of the dirt in the new pot and make
sure its stem points straight upwards,
- then fill it in around the sides
of the baby with the potting soil up to the level of the existing
surface of your plant and tamp lightly.
- If you water it now the water will redistribute some of the
soil and there will be some settling in the soil around the plant:
After the water has drained refill dirt around the plant so it is flush
with the surface of its old soil. Do not bury the root ball
below the surface of the new soil. The old (existing) roots
require access to surface air in order to prevent root rot and for best
growth. Leave 2 to 4 inches free space below the
rim to hold water!
- After you water it again and it has settled out you insert
the tomato stake all the way down to the bottom of the new pot and
gently but firmly tie your plant to it for support.
- Place in a shady location where it will get only an hour or two of
direct sun (but not a full days worth). Place the pot up on bricks so the
drain holes are not
blocked and air can get in after all the water drains out. Water it
once more in the new location.
- Wait to water it again only when the
soil looks and feels really dry, or if you see it start
water it for about an hour, soak it good and let it get totally
saturated, then let the surface layer of it dry out again before the
I wish you blessed and
If you got your plants from me they will have a series of codes printed
on its rooting/shipping pot. I encourage you to mark or label the top
code from the original pot (that plant's unique registry/sequence code)
onto the new pot before repotting the plant. Every plant that
clone of my proven
Salvia divinorum tree has had it's vital information recorded, and a
serial code assigned to it, when it's parent plant donates the cutting.
(8 digits for date code [as yyyymmdd] and 4 digits for the exact minute
[Pacific time: in 24 hr. format] of 'birth': the
code in the lower left is the sequence code of the donor plant*).
If you wish to propagate or sell 'self-fertile clones'
of Salvia yourself,
at some time in the future, with that top
you can trace your plants genetic lineage back to my
It's sort of a pedigree of her "family tree", as it were. Your plants
will grow just as fast without that code on their new pot. And the
birthplace is San Diego, CA. if you wish to cast an astrological chart
for the plant.
Registering the plants I love, as they are born, is my
own idea. And you can tell from the very careful way they were packed
that I do care what happens to them after they leave my hands. Not one
plant has been smashed while shipping them "Express Mail": once in
a while a leaf gets crumpled or falls off but never have they arrived
* Most of you got a donor/parent code of C3 on your
(seen on the right side of the photo here) later took the name
Calvin. Six feet tall in 2
5 of my giant Salvia Divinorum trees: Calvin is the plant on the right.
start with healthy parent stock!